POST 24 - FEBRUARY 2012 - CONCOURSE COMPROMISES

Until now, for me, concours competitions have been for other people, unjustly categorised in my mind as enthusiastic owners as opposed to hard core restoration enthusiasts.  If as planned, I bring this car back to its original as new state, is there not a case to at least have a bash at the concours scene and possibly enjoy the accolades and added value that a couple of trophies would bring.
Hypocritically, I have in the past judged a couple of local mixed mark events and have been more than aware of my limited detail knowledge, in spite of being immersed in the classic car scene for something approaching half a century.  I would have to add that some of my fellow judges were perhaps even less knowledgeable, which is a bit of a worry. 
Given my competitive streak, and the aforementioned potential vagaries of adjudication, I am not sure that I could live with the maxim that 'discretion is the better part of valour' upon coming second.  Coming third doesn't bear thinking about.
Concours related decisions for me, are mainly centred around the conflict of ideally using a car almost as a daily driver for around eight months of the year.  Compromises in favour of both ideals will have to be made.  Specifically:

The paint finish for the chassis. Originally, I believe a very thin coat of semi gloss black, possibly bitumen based paint. No primer or undercoat.

Remnants of paint provide a clue to original finish

After blast cleaning back to bear metal and etch priming, the chassis was seam sealed and given a liberal covering of fine texture stone guard, followed by several coats of semi gloss paint. It was then liberally impregnated with wax oil in every orifice.  For now and the next few years, the only person to care about this will be me.  Imagine then, another sixty years from now (President Ahmadinejad willing), some future custodian enjoying the fruits of my labours with a still rust free chassis.  That's the goal!

Chassis now finished for maximum protection.

The next issue again relates to paint.  Before the move from Foleshill to Browns Lane in 1952, all cars, possibly with the exception of motor show exhibits had their engine compartments and boots (trunks) brush painted black.  After the move they were painted body colour everywhere, on rotisseries. 

Picture clearly shows black paint in boot area, but not on hinge panel.

Undisturbed black (now with blue tinge) paint.  Brush marks
clearly visible.

I can't recall ever seeing a restored early 120 where this feature has been retained, and discussing the additional work to achieve this with the body shop, I can see why.  Not preserving this distinct difference would be for me, too obvious a deviation from original, so I think it's well worth the extra effort.

Another particular aversion are seats with immaculate marbled leather, so perfect that it looks unnatural, almost plastic, no variations, creases or faults, to me, this is not a good look.    I am told that the leather is specially sourced from Germany where they don't use barbed wire, so no cuts or scratches.  Surly this should not be seen as a positive feature in any competition where originality is prized!

Spats and wheels are an even more contentious subject.  I quite dislike the look of XK's with spats.  A view I think shared by all but a few die hard purists.  I do like wire wheels, painted, not chrome.  In 1950 all XK's came with steel wheels and spats. Wire wheels weren't even an option until March 1951.  Never the less, this is one aspect of the project not open to discussion.  Body colour wires will be fitted. 

KRU600 - photo courtesy of first owner Vernon Maitland
Spats - love em or hate em! 

The original steel wheels and spats will be cleaned, sprayed with wax and properly crated so that some future owner will have the option of easily taking the car back to original spec if preferred.

In all other respects, KRU600 should be indistinguishable from new.  There will be a good many upgrades as detailed previously, but hidden away, out of sight from even the most hair-splitting concours judge.  The summer of 2013 should be interesting.

POST 23 - FEBRUARY 2012 - REAL PROGRESS AT LAST

With holidays owed from 2011 (plus 3 days from 2010!) and with my business partner firmly back in harness, it would be foolish to miss the opportunity to take some time off and get the project back on schedule. 
The next major target date is early April when I get the chassis back from Alex and should by then have the axle and all suspension parts fully refurbished and ready to fit.  With any luck, I might also have the engine built and ready to install.
Right now its all a bit messy, lots of activity, but with quite a few sub assemblies being worked on simultaneously, while I wait for parts and outside contractors to complete various specialist bits.

Its probably most appropriate (if a little boring) at this point to simply include a selection of un-themed pictures to give a flavour of the different jobs in hand.

Off Side Front Suspension ready for re-assembly with all new
Poly Bushes and Ball joints.  All metalwork powder coated
and all fasteners zinc plated.  Note new shock absorber bottom
mounting pin (RH side of pic), now with thread, instead of that
really naff washer and split pin arrangement. 

Bonnet back from Leaping Cats with 48 perfect louvres pressed in.
Problem with this is that the vee between the cam covers can
fill with water in heavy rain if parked pointing down hill. Ali plate
bonded to underside will allow fixing of a thin aluminium sheet
to hopefully drain water down the sides of the engine.

Simple fabricated ali sheets will resolve rusty spark plug problem
caused by water "ponding" in centre of engine Vee.

Rear brake parts for one side, ready for assembly.  Shoes supplied turned
out to be for a later version 120 (post Feb 52) so I had the originals
 re-shod with bonded linings at half the cost.  Unfortunately two had
the linings bonded in the wrong place so I am still waiting for them
to come back.  All too typical a parts supply saga.

ENV Diff dismantled and looking good with all bearings replaced
as a matter of course.  This was done by Gearbox and Axle specialist
and generally good bloke, Paul at Lagonda Garage, Billingham.

Another conundrum.  On re-assembling the rear axle, the clearance
for the tapered wheel bearings had increased from the specified
5 to 8 thou to around 20 thou.  Checked all the obvious causes and
was contemplating having the 62 thou shims ground down to correct
the problem when it suddenly dawned on me - around 12 thou of powder
coating had been added, instead of the usual vestige (2 thou) of Jaguar
 factory paint.  It took the best part of an hour to sand back.

All is well again.  0.13mm - just over 5 thou will do nicely. Just
enough to give a barely perceptible feeling / indication of end float.

Another "fill in" job is to sort all the bits for re-chroming.
Extreme care was needed to remove windscreen frames from
the glass,but they are in pretty good shape and should
re-chrome to perfection.

Quite difficult to see but if you look closely (enlarge the picture) you
can just make out the date code of the triplex toughened windscreen
glass, with a dot against "D" - the ninth letter of "TOUGHENED" and
one against "I" - the third letter of TRIPLEX so most likely made in
the third quarter of 1949 or just possibly replacement glass made in 59.
  As both pieces are identical my guess would be the former.  Unfortunately
the glass is quite badly scratched but may respond to the services of
a professional glass polishing operation, or may even have ago myself.

Parts ready to go to S&T Electroplating in Bristol.
 http://www.chromebysandt.com/
S&T did the chrome on my Healey 3000 and XK140,
both to a superb standard.  Windscreen surround eventually
removed from glass with great difficulty and the help of a heat
gun to soften /melt the rubber U shaped channel to glass seals.
    

So - this is the view of the workshop at the beginning of February
2012.  Can't wait to get the engine parts and chassis back and start
putting things back together.  With most of the really dirty work
completed, I've even taken my "stand up by itself" boiler suit home
 for a wash.

After my visit today (Feb 2nd) to see Alex at Auto Bodycraft, he feels its quite likely that he will no longer need the chassis by early March (a month ahead of schedule) which will give me around four weeks from now to  finish the major sub assemblies, but excluding the engine rebuild.

I was given fair warning that engine machining specialists, AMAC whilst having an excellent reputation for high quality work would take a little "chasing" to have my engine parts back for the end of January as agreed, and this is now the case.  Its just a matter of them prioritising my job over somebody else.   With so many other diverse jobs to do, it isn't an issue right now, but I know from experience that it will need some pressure, which if not applied now will be all the harder to apply, say 3 months from now when the season is in full swing.  It's always the case that the very best people are always too busy.

POST 22 - JANUARY 2012 - MANIFOLD N.O.S. PARTS AT HERITAGE

I have never forgotten, at age 16, seeing the engine bay of a nearly new MK2 Jag, topped off with polished aluminium cam covers, twin SU's and shiny black vitreous enamel exhaust manifolds.  I'd seen a few posh engines before, but those manifolds were different, unusual, an unexpected delight, and clearly left a lasting impression.

Fast forward 44 years - At significant cost, I had my 140 manifolds re-coated by a man in Hampshire.  They were away quite some time but looked fabulous when returned.  The package included detailed instructions on "curing" the new coating by gradually building up the heat with a cool down period between each cycle.  I followed this to the letter, a couple of days before the cars maiden voyage, a trip to the Silverstone Classic.
It was a very warm weekend with the engine still tight, running in, and hotter than I would have liked.  After switching off, due to heat soak, the water temperature gauge (a Smiths unit combined with the oil pressure gauge)would read 95 PSI or even less! (XK drivers will realise this is not a typo or an erroneous piece of misinformation).
The Saturday track action finished with a huge thunderstorm and flash floods.  On the way back to our Peterborough Hotel the 140 never missed a beat, often thrashing through several inches of standing water with clouds of steam pouring from the very hot engine bay.  Great fun. 
Back at Silverstone on Sunday I opened the bonnet to show off my newly built engine with shiny black enamel manifolds, to find most of the enamel had fallen off.  I guess as a result of some very rapid hot / cold cycles.
The man from Hampshire was entirely unimpressed with my protestations.  He'd obviously heard it all before.

It took a while to get over this, with the ratty appearance of the manifolds spoiling an otherwise immaculate engine bay.  Eventually I sent them of to Zircotec for coating with their patented ceramic process, not nearly as nice as black enamel but at least reliable and not effected by alternating temperature extremes.

Zircotec coated 140 manifolds.  I really need to take the rust of
the ends of the studs, but its -6 in the garage so it may have to
wait till spring.

So this brings me back to the 120.  The manifolds are in the usual parlous state with a couple of snapped studs.  Zircotec now have a new process with a smooth black finish but it is eye wateringly expensive.  SNG Barratt have had some re-manufactured at a around £360.00 a pair, and I still see the Hampshire man advertising refurbishment, again at similar cost, but he does include new studs.  
During one of my regular trawls through EBay I find a pair listed as 'New Old Stock' at a starting price of £350.00.  They don't go, so I contact the seller direct, Heritage Jaguar Parts.  We agree a price and I arrange to collect from their warehouse in Dewsbury, West Yorkshire. 

I travel down with friend Mike (two E types) Cassidy and we are both stunned at what we find.  Hidden away in a labyrinth of decaying Dickensian mill buildings, just off the Huddersfield Road, is a single large white washed store room with a huge quantity and range of new and used, but all original E type and XK parts, certainly running into tens of thousands of items.  We are well met by Jason who runs this relatively new operation and he explains that it is the direct result of the purchase of several container loads of parts from a single USA source (with more to come).  There are rare and really hard to find parts every where you look, with many boxes yet to unpack.  Imagine going to an auto jumble, but with only E Type, XK and some early saloon parts and mostly without all the usual junk. 



Just one corner of the store - mainly engines, gearboxes
and heads in this area.  Out of camera shot is a small mountain
of pistons and another of con-rods.  Over a dozen pairs of smooth
stud cam covers are on the orange shelf unit.

One of several random boxes of instruments awaiting
identification and labelling.

The only non Jag parts I see are the odd rare MG and Bentley item.  The down side is that many of the parts are still to be sorted and put on shelves, so considerable time needs to spent rummaging.  In a large carton full of original Lucas boxed head light rims and fittings, I find what I believe are two brand new old stock inner head light rims, almost the last of my really hard to find missing 120 parts. 

I am only guessing and hoping that these are the correct inner
rims for an early 120 never having seen an example off a car.

.

Lovely new old stock Vitreous Enamelled manifolds.
Don't know how long they'll stay like this but I will take
bets it will be longer than a brand new pair made in ?????

The manifolds are found and are exactly as described, in as new condition clearly never having seen the rest of an XK engine.  Who knows, with around 50 years for the enamel to cure it may stay on a little longer than usual.

Contact details for Jason at Heritage Jaguar Parts :
Telephone  01924 430818
jason@heritagejaguarparts.com   http://www.heritagejaguarparts.com/

POST 21 - JANUARY 2012 - BARE METAL RESPRAY - REALLY!

New to Blogs?
If you're reading this for the first time, you might want to start at the beginning.  You can use the "Blog Archive" list to the right to quickly navigate around.  To find the start, click on 2010 (1) to go to the First Post.  Use the "Blog Archive" list again (2012) to return to here or anywhere in between.  Sorry if this is a little confusing but its just the way that blogs apparently work.  The last post is always the first post you see.

With just over one year elapsed since purchase, the work schedule is still reasonably in tact but will need to be improved on, to win back some of the built in contingency.  The Christmas break has seen nothing more than a bit of a "dabble" with the odd inevitable hangover not exactly helping things. 

For Christmas, my daughter bought me an Idiots Guide to Blogging which says that I should be producing between one and three posts a day to be successful. So hey-ho, I guess Ill just have to settle for failure with two a month.  If progress picks up, I could possibly stretch it to one a week!

Anyway, back to the job in hand.  How often have you seen the phrase in Classic Car adverts "bare metal respray" and wondered just exactly how bare was the metal at its very "barest" stage?   Back in August, the front and rear body sections and other assorted bits were taken to Dave Ferguson at Hutton Rudby and media blasted in every nook and cranny, with not a vestige of anything other than clean metal and lead remaining.  After this somewhat brutal process, the body was immediately etch primed to prevent the formation of any surface rust on the now spotlessly clean steel.  Dave had purposely picked an ideal hot dry day to complete the job, and then trailered the bits five miles back to Auto Body Craft at Stokesley.

The wooden temporary chassis had done sterling service up to this point, but in order to ensure an absolutely precise re-construction of front section, doors then rear section, it was decided that the chassis proper, currently also in etch primer, should be utilised from this point forward. 

Picture taken just before the trip to Dave's for media blasting, and
a reminder of the reason for removing the side of the wing.  Its the
 only way to gain full access to the nasty bits which invariably rust,
and reside behind it.  Although only the bottom of the side frame
 was rusted out, we decide it would be altogether better to replace
 the whole frame on each side.

After blasting and etch priming, with the new side frame from
Contour Autocraft in place and now sitting on the proper chassis.

New sill with B post, tacked in place for first trial fit, with the original
number of packing pieces on the chassis outriggers.  The steel
triangulated braces also fit exactly as before which all bodes well.

Lots of other detail bits are being attended to.  Alex just didn't like
the look of these flange plates, or the way they were fitted so
decided to replace them. 

Wing back in place after much seam sealing and wax-oiling of
the bits behind it.  The decision on the colour (previous post)
was essential because the door hinges needed painting and
fitting before the wing was welded back in place.  Door fit looks
pretty good and rear section first trial fit also looks promising.

Once Alex is happy with the way the whole car sits together on the chassis, it will have all the new parts properly welded back together.  A slight change of plan is to solidly brace the body with steel box section and adjustable threaded rod, so that it can be safely lifted off the chassis in one piece.  I then need to fabricate the rear part of the chassis in ply, to form a complete temporary base for Alex to sit the whole body on in order to start the bodywork in detail. This will free up the chassis for me to start re-assembly back in my workshop, hopefully around mid March. 

FROG EYE FRIGHT AND WHEEL WOBBLE
Back in 1996 a bought a Frog Eye Sprite (Bug Eye in Americana's)  I spent three years restoring it and another three making it go like stink, handle even better, and eventually stop.  This involved various hair brained DIY add-ons including Turbo Charging, Nitrous-Oxide and eventually after a few engine mishaps and detonations, a Supercharger.  I still have it, and use it for sunny days, the occasional hill climb and track days.  I usually drive it like a demented teenage delinquent and it scares the crap out of me.  It will I think, one day be responsible for the onset of an adrenalin related coronary incident.  Just a matter of time.

Somewhat crowded engine bay of Frog-Eye with ad-hoc additions
and associated plumbing, bit like a V12 Jag engine bay in that respect.

Through out my ownership it has always suffered to some extent from wheel balance problems and try as I may, I have never found a tyre depot that filled me with confidence, with endless attempts to get the wheels balance correctly.  I am pretty well barred from all my local depots due to my insistence that they do a second check after achieving the usual 0-0 on the balancing machine first time round.  Always, and I mean ALWAYS it no longer reads 0-0 when they very reluctantly put the wheel back on the machine.  The reason I'm sure, is that the cones are not designed specifically for wire wheels and the wheels fit on the machine slightly differently each time.  That's why, when you take them to the tyre depot you always hear the guy say "don't know who balanced these mate but they're a ******* mile out"  Actually, it was you, last week, and you charged me twenty quid, is a not much appreciated response.

So whats to be done?  Browsing EBay a few weeks back after yet another wobble issue, I happed upon a proper adaptor for balancing wire wheels, bid on it and amazingly won it for £26.00.  Its designed to fit a "Sice" balancer, so all I have to do now is find a Tyre Depot out of the area that has such a machine.

Adaptor for Sice wheel balancing machine  - after a little TLC.
The very fact that such an accessory exists must mean that
there is a need for it!

Next job starting 2nd week in January will be re-assembly of rear axle and one half of front suspension.

POST 20 - DECEMBER 2011 - ELECTRICAL CHANGES & ADDITIONS

With my proper job occupying a good deal of time at present, not a lot has happened in my workshop, but quite a lot elsewhere.  The body is starting to take shape at Auto-Bodycraft with endless trial fittings of various bits, until they are happy that it will all go back together properly, before starting work in detail.
The block and head are at AMAC Northallerton awaiting the arrival of pistons, valve guides and a rear oil seal conversion from Classic Jaguar Texas, due any day now.
The rear axle is being re-assembled at Gearbox and Diff specialist Lagonda Garage Billingham with all new bearings, having had the axle casing soda blasted and re-painted.  Lots of assorted brackets plates and suspension parts are being powder coated at Romax in Stockton and a big box of fasteners have been cleaned and zinc plated at Cleveland Chroming. 
I have however, managed to find time for a trip to Coventry to collect my bonnet from Leaping Cats who have pressed in 48 louvres.  At the same time I called in to see Stuart at Coventry Auto Components who did me cracking deal on a front disc brake conversion, T5 Gear Box conversion and a couple of hundred other assorted bits and pieces. 

In addition to the front disc brakes and five speed gearbox, its time to start thinking about other alterations and additions.  Driving a fairly broad selection of old cars over the past 45 years has given me a reasonable insight into whats generally lacking in terms of comfort, reliability, usability and safety.  Being an inveterate tinkerer, I've added all manner of gadgets and upgrades to past cars, some awful and pointless (at seventeen, a set of Colonel Bogey Horns were the ultimate accessory) but equally, some, really worthwhile.  I am aware that at 63 I ought to be subscribing to the "original is best" school of thought and enjoying the contrast with modern cars - baulking gears and misting windows, but if I can improve on things without it being too obvious then I will. 

Performance and handling mods are generally well known in the XK fraternity and are often a question of what can be afforded, from super spec motors to all manner of handling and transmission upgrades.  What is more interesting I think are the little things that can be easily added at relatively small cost.  They can enhance daily usage but also make long distance trips much less wearing and consequently safer.  Many involve alterations and additions to the electrical systems and can be Incorporated into the existing (in my case new) loom or added and powered by an auxiliary loom, all totally concealed.

A good example of such an addition is the Mazda (yes - Mazda!!!) MX5 Heater blower installed under the nearside wing of my XK140 FHC where one of two six volt batteries previously lived.  This feeds huge volumes of air into a modern heater matrix (Mazda again), with the original XK heater front cover concealing the dastardly deed.  Total cost didn't exceed £85.00 with the bits coming from EBay and RS components.  It took three attempts and countless hours of enjoyable fiddling to get it right, with the big pay off coming from almost instant window de-misting and if required, more heat than even I can handle.

Mazda MX5 modified blower unit ensconced under wing.  Will
disappear from view entirely once the inner wing panel is fitted.



Original XK Heater front cover re-finished in crackle black with
small panel where control paddles exit to direct air flow.

 My wish list of electrical alterations and additions seems endless, even excessive, but almost all exist in some form on my 140 Fixed Head already.  Unusually, some were genuine period accessories fitted when I bought the car, with the rest added during my 3 year "rolling" restoration. 

1950's style accessories in 140 as bought - all quite ergonomic
but not very pretty.  Extra gauge is oil temperature.

After restoration.  Only additional gauge now is voltmeter.
Face changed by me to match other gauges.

Even more accessories and knobs - as bought.  One very handy item
is the rear screen demister in the form of a long heating element at the
bottom of the rear window.  Takes a while to work, but very effective.

Again, after restoration and back to factory original including
steering wheel.  Radio Head unit sits behind dummy draw front.

Centre arm rest now contains some badly needed lockable
storage space, plus an IPOD connection, USB 5Volt charger
and switch to disconnect fuel pump.  Also essentials for JDC
steak & kidney pie monthly meetings - indigestion tablets.

First owner of my 140 was Sir Robert McAlpine but it was mainly driven by his brother Kenneth who was a works driver and financial backer of the Connaught Racing Team from 1949 to 1957.  In the history file is a letter from Kenneth to a previous owner warning of brake fade "if one needs to stop quickly from 100MPH"!
The old wiring for all of the additions shown in the pictures of the car "as bought" was contained in a properly made PVC covered loom and I would say it was mostly installed at the same time and most likely by Coombes, who supplied the car new.

So, whats on the 120's electrical alterations and additions wish list.  To start with, the usual major items: Conversion to Negative earth, an alternator or possibly a "dynonator" - apparently an alternator which looks like a dynamo, high torque starter motor, Facet fuel pump, electric fan and electronic ignition (123).

A single 12 Volt Battery re-located under the off side wing, with cut off switch and charge socket (for winter storage).

Lighting upgrades to include halogen head light bulbs with relays to switch a heavy feed cable direct from the battery.  To avoid lots of arm twirling I suppose indicators are essential but will need a loud bleeper to ensure they are not inadvertently left on.  A super bright LED brake light incorporated into the reversing light might be sensible if the rear indicators are somehow incorporated into the tail lights.  It would be good to somehow fit front indicators into the existing side lights - possibly very bright orange LED's - needs some research.  A map reading light under the dash also sounds handy.

To slow down any opportunist car thieves and reduce my insurance premium, a high tech Immobiliser will disable the fuel pump and ignition. 

I'm not really sure about Radio's in open cars. The cacophony of wind noise and exhaust note usually negate the requirement.  But just in case, it may be sensible to include basic wiring for a radio head unit with IPOD connection, audio Amp / 4 speakers and an aerial possibly located in the windscreen surround rubber.

The one additional gauge which I would find very useful is a voltmeter, to monitor Alternator / Battery performance. Question is, where would it live?

Minor but essential details would include an ancillary equipment fuse panel, relay switched ignition feed, starter solenoid and ammeter wiring re-configured, a modern horn relay located in the original housing, manual switch disconnect for the choke (starting Carburettor) and a windscreen washer pump. It would also be good to have the dash and ancillary switch panel on modern connectors for easy service / removal.

The correlation between classic car breakdowns and flat mobile phones is well known, so a 5Volt stabilised USB socket in the arm rest storage box, is I think, the most likely and obvious way to avoid them.
Likewise, a 12V socket behind the seats to provide power for a cool box full of beer will make the wait for the breakdown truck that much more enjoyable, especially as you won't be driving anywhere for a while.

One other upgrade I would like to play with is a Davies Craig electric water pump with Electronic Control Unit.  It seems to me to be such an obvious solution to absolutely control and optimise all aspects of engine temperature.  Conversely, it may be a total waste of time and money, but it does sound interesting.  I will cover the installation in some detail when I get around to it - I would estimate July / August 2012, and eventually report on the effectiveness - or not.

I will hopefully have some real progress to write about at the beginning of January 2012 having had a few days to "get properly stuck in" over the Christmas break.

Just been to collect my suspension bits from the powder coating company to assemble over the hols - Sign on the door says - Closed until Jan 3rd !!!

POST 19 - DECEMBER 2011 - MAJOR DECISION TIME

Choice of colour has been an ongoing consideration since starting this project in earnest in spring.  Although many months away from painting the car, I need to make the decision now so that the door hinges can be painted prior to the wing sides being re-fitted.    Main contenders being British Racing Green, (BRG) Metallic Silver and White.  Each has its plus and minus points:


British Racing Green
Definitely my favourite classic car colour.  After a nut and bolt 3 year restoration of a Healey 3000 around six years back, I thought it looked fabulous in BRG but strangely, I didn't really enjoy driving it.  After all that work this was a bit of a disappointment.  Very subjective, I know, but I can only deduce that Big Healey devotees have never tried XK's!

Ralph Lauren had a early works aluminium 120 OTS in BRG in his L'arte De L'automobile exhibition in Paris this summer http://ralphlaurencarcollection.co.uk/  and it easily held its own in the style stakes in the company of multi-million pound Bugattis, Ferraris and Alphas.

My gorgeous looking but disappointing to drive Healey 3000

BRG scores a big minus however, because apart from it not being the cars original colour, it was not available until March 1952 so effectively a non original colour for any 1950 XK120. 

Also, I already have an XK in BRG all be it a rather unusual shade and referred to by our local Jaguar Drivers Club Chief, Mr Geoff Mansfield as DMO (Drab Military Olive)  However, this BRG/DMO 140 FHC, unlike the Healey 3000 makes up for any cosmetic shortfall with its superb performance, handling and amazing high speed - easy 90MPH - cruising ability (considering its 1955 build date)

The ultimate classic touring car.  In BRG or DMO.  I doesn't
really matter.  If you want to get places quickly, in relative
comfort and subtle style , this is THE car to do it in.  

Final nail in the coffin for BRG however came from wife Angela who simply proclaimed one old green banger is already one too many!   Many years ago, I was confident that I'd won her over on our first (blind) date, after arriving at the pub in my newly restored (BRG would you believe) flat rad Morgan, looking like a total prat, replete with flying helmet and goggles. Could it be that she has never forgiven me after the oil pressure gauge quietly dripped black oil onto her new white pleated mini skirt.  At the time, I saw the oil stain as an appropriate initiation into my old car world, but I am starting to wonder if after 37 years, this was a youthful misjudgement.

Metallic Silver.
It took a while to convince Alex, from Auto-Bodycraft that metallic paint even existed in 1949. Obscure plus point but curiously satisfying.  It was a factory option standard colour from the launch of the 120 but was discontinued in November 1952.  I wonder why - lack of orders, difficult to get right perhaps?

Silver 120 takes on a strange hue under the lights of the NEC
Body may actually be sterling silver at this price!

It seems there are literally hundreds of versions / hues / tints / shades of metallic silver.  It doesn't help the case for silver that it apparently accounted for 26% of all cars produced in 2010

White / Old English White / Cream
The Heritage certificate lists my car as cream, but the old brown log book says white.  The first owner, Vernon Maitland (See Post 12) in an email to me says the Heritage certificate is incorrect, and states very positively "My car was not cream, it was white"
According to some knowledgeable sources these are simply name variations for one and the same colour but they do look different to me from period pictures.  This could of course be down to photographic processing or  fading of white / cream to another shade or even variations in factory paint.  I guess after 60 plus years  its difficult to be sure.  What is certain is that it would be good to retain the original colour.  This is further enforced when respected XK expert Ian Mills of Twyford Moors tells me that White (Cream) with red upholstery is the the top spec when it comes to selling 120 OTS's.  - Executor take note!

Then I come across this picture. Decision made.

I don't know why this is so intrinsically right, but it absolutely is!
And this is exactly what I hope to achieve.
Image from XK Data 
http://www.xkdata.com/

Post script.  I have since discovered that this is the car once owned by Daily Express cartoonist Giles.

POST 18 NOV 2011 - HINGES, PRAYERS & LULLABIES

Encouraged by almost three thousand views to date, from December this year I am going to try to post around the beginning and middle of the month, so by say the fifth of each month there should be a couple of posts to view.

Due to pressure from my real job, I've had very little time in the past three weeks to do much XK stuff.  If I was starting over in business, I would definitely consider the relatively hassle free and predictable world of classic car restoration as an alternative occupation.
So - following are a small selection of "hinge" related items, completed in past months, but not previously mentioned.
 



If you've ever wondered what exactly goes wrong with XK hinges making
doors drop / sag then this picture will help explain.  The hinge pin rusts and seizes
in the hinge arm causing the pin to rotate between the upper and lower
plates making them oval.  This picture shows the arm hole enlarged with a brass
 bush fitted. The worn oval plate holes have been taken out to 1/2" I/D



Top Hat shape washers have been made to interference fit into the
1/2" I/D holes, effectively creating new hinge pin locations in the plates.
The new pin has a nipple to allow grease into pin / bush bearing and is
an interference fit into the top hat washers.




Hinge assembled.  The important bit is to ensure that the arm rotates
on the pin and that the pin does not rotate in the top hat section washers.

 This is all well and good, as long as you can actually access and remove the hinges, which is only really possible in most cases by cutting away some part of the wing.  I am told that there is however an alternative solution (bodge)  to stop doors dropping / sagging due to oval hinge plate holes.  Before trying this, make sure you read and fully understand the last highlighted sentence of this section!  Also be aware that unless your very lucky or very clever, it will probably alter the original shut lines / panel gaps.
First try to get some easing fluid into the hinge pin.  Then with the door not quite fully open, jack up the back edge to the correct height / position.  With extreme care and much difficulty, weld the top and bottom of the hinge pins to the hinge plates to prevent them moving in the worn oval holes. 
The next part of the operation depends on your religious leanings but should certainly involve prayers of some sort before proceeding. 
The door is of course, now stuck open.  The hinge can't move because the top and bottom of the pin is welded to the plates and the centre part is seized in the hinge arm.  Gently rock the door too and fro (a lullaby might help in easing the stress at this point) and hopefully the pin will gradually free in the arm and rotate as it was designed to.  If it doesn't, then your well and truly buggered.

120 / 140 modified bonnet hinge

When I restored my 140, I had endless problems getting the bonnet to fit, until I realised that one worn and one almost seized hinge made the bonnet twist and and finish up in a different place every time I closed it.  The solution, whilst a little time consuming was actually very straightforward.  Flushed with my 140 success, I decided not to prat around with the 120 hinges and give them the same treatment. 
I drilled out the ends of the stepped pins which hold the two halves together and binned them.  Next I took out the worn 1/4" holes in the assorted remaining bits to just under 8mm to make them a nice fit for the shank of a stainless 8mm allen head bolt.  I had eight new stainless spacers and 32 x 1.8 mm thick stainless washers made up, then using lots of grease re-assembled each hinge.  I used nylocks (sacrilege !!!) to get an exact and equal amount of friction into each hinge.  The result is a really nice smooth movement with zero lateral play making bonnet alignment much less of a hit / miss affair.  Lots of minus points I should think, if I ever consider joining you concours nutters!  I will eventually paint the stainless spacers and fasteners black.

Another interesting little job.  Around 48 parts make up the door catch
assembly.  I always restore pairs of parts one at a time to save remembering
how it all goes back together.  After fully dismantling, cleaning, painting,
lubricating and re-assembling, the whole mechanism worked beautifully.

Finally
Jag Lovers Forum recently had a post from a bloke from Monaco asking about accommodation for the Goodwood revival next year.  All the usual and expected answers re. Posh Hotels at £300 /Night, Sailing Clubs, B&B's etc. so I couldn't help posting my genuine "recommendation"  Interestingly, UK readers will probably "twig" where it is before the link, whilst none UK readers will see it as the bargain it actually was.
Anyway, my reply to the question was :

This may be an interesting alternative to the usual suggestions and will also allow you to experience a far broader and possibly more typical insight into the average Englishman (and Englishwoman) than you will find at the Revival meeting. 
A few years back we stayed at a complex close to the seaside (like Monaco) within a small town with many Royal connections (also like Monaco.) It was around thirteen miles from Goodwood, had a choice of eateries, adequate parking, spa, swimming pool and a very large nightclub. I seem to recall that a four bed apartment within the complex, booked at quite short notice, for 3 nights cost around £250 – Just over £20.00 / person /night.  Beer was very reasonable, but choice of wine somewhat limited.  It was an interesting weekend and you should try everything at least once in your life.
www.butlins.com/resorts/bognor-regis